On the Trail of Some Bluebonnets - Part One: Llano, Burnet and Flat Creek

Spring arrived, and so did Don and Sheila, down a suitcase zipper but high in spirit. Being their second visit, we were all ready to check out some new things. On Friday, Rachel and I ditched work and the four of us drove out past some of the Highland Lakes on the route called the Bluebonnet Trail around here.

The drive took us west of Austin past the highland lakes. The "trail" itself was a bit disappointing. Sure, there were some bluebonnets along the side of the road, but really not all that much more than you see on the side of most of the highways. At the far end of the trail, though, we found a gem of a little town in Llano.


Don, Sheila, Rachel upon arrival in the historic center of Llano

Llano is a pretty small town (3,325 people according to the 2000 census) about 65 miles west of Austin. The city dates back about 150 years, and the history shows in the well-preserved town center, in the middle of which sits great old county courthouse of sandstone, marble and granite. Around the courthouse is a square of great shops, restaurants and the like, making for a great little stroll. On our walk, we picked up some great treats at the Berry Street Bakery. The bakers inside were busily preparing a variety of tasty goods, but were all very friendly. Don couldn't pass up the opportunity to talk bread with one of the bakers and pick up a pointer or two.


Making some beautiful cookies at Berry Street Bakery


Sheila walking on the square in Llano


Reflections of Rachel


Shops in Llano


A little folk art

On one corner of the square stands a flagpole flying three flags. The top two were easily recognizable as the U.S. and Texas flags, but we couldn't figure out what the bottom one was. We asked around a bit, but nobody seemed to know. One person suggested we ask Jim the jeweler, who apparently knows his Texas history well, but even Jim didn't know. Finally, after several people got caught up in the investigation and some books were even brought out, one of the shopkeepers informed us that it was one of the Confederate flags. Apparently there were several different Confederate flags during the brief history of the Confederate States of America. The one in Llano is the very first version of the first official flag of the Confederacy, called the "Stars and Bars," which was flown from March 5, 1861, to May 26, 1863. It started out with seven stars, but eventually the number increased to thirteen.


The three flags: United States, Texas, Confederate States


Jim and Don investigating the bottom flag

After the day's history lesson, hungry from our drive out west, we crossed the river and hit up Cooper's BBQ. I had heard good things about Cooper's, and when I saw the big smoking pits out front when we pulled up, I knew I wouldn't be disappointed. You're greeted at the front by one of the men working the pits, who shows you the impressive selection of meat. After he gives you your order, you take your tray inside, where a second crew cuts your meat and doles out the sides. The main dining room was full of locals enjoying some 'cue, so we had to sit across the way in a dining annex. It doesn't really matter where you park, though, because the food quickly makes you forget the surroundings. Very moist, smoky brisket that was up there with the Lockhart joints and Louie Mueller, along with some pretty tasty ribs and sausage. Probably not the very best I've had, but definitely in that next tier.


Pits at Cooper's


Lunch

Satisfied from our big lunch, we headed back east toward Austin, stopping in Burnet, another charming town, on our way to Flat Creek Winery. Flat Creek is in a beautiful spot pretty close to Austin. While some of the Central Texas wines have a long way to go, these were pretty nice. The muscats had great depth, and the "Super Texan" red was surprisingly rich. Turned out to be a perfect way to cap a great road trip.


Flat Creek tasting room


Our guests enjoying some wine


Cheers!