Friday, April 10, 2009

On the Trail of Some Bluebonnets - Part One: Llano, Burnet and Flat Creek

Spring arrived, and so did Don and Sheila, down a suitcase zipper but high in spirit. Being their second visit, we were all ready to check out some new things. On Friday, Rachel and I ditched work and the four of us drove out past some of the Highland Lakes on the route called the Bluebonnet Trail around here.

The drive took us west of Austin past the highland lakes. The "trail" itself was a bit disappointing. Sure, there were some bluebonnets along the side of the road, but really not all that much more than you see on the side of most of the highways. At the far end of the trail, though, we found a gem of a little town in Llano.


Don, Sheila, Rachel upon arrival in the historic center of Llano

Llano is a pretty small town (3,325 people according to the 2000 census) about 65 miles west of Austin. The city dates back about 150 years, and the history shows in the well-preserved town center, in the middle of which sits great old county courthouse of sandstone, marble and granite. Around the courthouse is a square of great shops, restaurants and the like, making for a great little stroll. On our walk, we picked up some great treats at the Berry Street Bakery. The bakers inside were busily preparing a variety of tasty goods, but were all very friendly. Don couldn't pass up the opportunity to talk bread with one of the bakers and pick up a pointer or two.


Making some beautiful cookies at Berry Street Bakery


Sheila walking on the square in Llano


Reflections of Rachel


Shops in Llano


A little folk art

On one corner of the square stands a flagpole flying three flags. The top two were easily recognizable as the U.S. and Texas flags, but we couldn't figure out what the bottom one was. We asked around a bit, but nobody seemed to know. One person suggested we ask Jim the jeweler, who apparently knows his Texas history well, but even Jim didn't know. Finally, after several people got caught up in the investigation and some books were even brought out, one of the shopkeepers informed us that it was one of the Confederate flags. Apparently there were several different Confederate flags during the brief history of the Confederate States of America. The one in Llano is the very first version of the first official flag of the Confederacy, called the "Stars and Bars," which was flown from March 5, 1861, to May 26, 1863. It started out with seven stars, but eventually the number increased to thirteen.


The three flags: United States, Texas, Confederate States


Jim and Don investigating the bottom flag

After the day's history lesson, hungry from our drive out west, we crossed the river and hit up Cooper's BBQ. I had heard good things about Cooper's, and when I saw the big smoking pits out front when we pulled up, I knew I wouldn't be disappointed. You're greeted at the front by one of the men working the pits, who shows you the impressive selection of meat. After he gives you your order, you take your tray inside, where a second crew cuts your meat and doles out the sides. The main dining room was full of locals enjoying some 'cue, so we had to sit across the way in a dining annex. It doesn't really matter where you park, though, because the food quickly makes you forget the surroundings. Very moist, smoky brisket that was up there with the Lockhart joints and Louie Mueller, along with some pretty tasty ribs and sausage. Probably not the very best I've had, but definitely in that next tier.


Pits at Cooper's


Lunch

Satisfied from our big lunch, we headed back east toward Austin, stopping in Burnet, another charming town, on our way to Flat Creek Winery. Flat Creek is in a beautiful spot pretty close to Austin. While some of the Central Texas wines have a long way to go, these were pretty nice. The muscats had great depth, and the "Super Texan" red was surprisingly rich. Turned out to be a perfect way to cap a great road trip.


Flat Creek tasting room


Our guests enjoying some wine


Cheers!

Saturday, April 4, 2009

SXSW 2009: No Wristband? No Problem.

There's more good live music here in Austin than in most other places I've been, but if there's a slow time of year, it would have to be fall and winter. If there's an unofficial kick-off to the new season, it would definitely be the South By Southwest Music, Film and Interactive festivals. This year's festival was definitely bigger than ever. Just in terms of press coverage, the festival generated about twice as many hits on Google News compared with last year.

The event is really geared more toward industry professionals than fans. The various wristbands that get you into different permutations of discussions, films, shows and parties, are not cheap -- the less expensive ones will run you about four times as much as a three day pass to the Austin City Limits Music Festival. The nice thing, though, is that there are tons of things you can do for free. We spent the two weekends that bookend the festival sampling some of the free events, and had lots of fun on the house.

The Interactive festival kicks off before the film and music festivals start. The first weekend of SXSW is really all about Interactive. We checked out the free ScreenBurn Arcade event happening down at the Austin Convention Center. The Convention Center serves as a hub during SXSW. That first weekend it was already full of skinny dudes in skinny jeans, geeks with laptops, and lots and lots of Legos!



ScreenBurn is described as "the video game element" of SXSW Interactive, and ScreenBurn Arcade as "public space to explore the newest innovations in video games, and plan hands-on in casual and advanced tournaments." Most of the crowd was gathered around the blaring Guitar Hero contest. If you wanted a breather, there were small, retro-styled "living rooms" set up in the corners where you could indulge in some of the best in classic video game consoles. The crowd? Nerds galore! Seeing the Mattel Electronic Football handheld game brought back memories of hours wasted trying to move my dash across the screen without running into other dashes.


The person dressed as Halo's Master Chief was a big-time nerd draw


Decorations at one of the retro-gaming lounges. The Mattel Electronic Football is in the front on the right.

For us and many others, SXSW is really more about the Music festival. Over 1,800 bands played sets at the music festival this year. While most shows will cost you something to get in, wristband or otherwise, there's a free showcase at Auditorium Shores park for for three days long. Last year we got to see Spoon, Del tha Funkee Homosapien and Grupo Fantastma. This year, we went down on Thursday and saw M. Ward play a great show. Despite the big crowd, we were able to get pretty close to the front. M is a talented guitarist, so it was nice to be able to watch him during some of the set's more challenging songs. His music is a real mix of sounds -- country, rock, folk, blues, pop. His set featured material from his latest acclaimed album, Hold Time, back to his earlier stuff from the early part of the decade. Highlights for me were some of the tunes he played from 2006's Post-War (the only album of his that I own), including a cover of Daniel Johnston's "To Go Home," an bluesy, finger-picking instrumental "Duet for Guitars #3," and the haunting, tempo-changing "Sad, Sad Song." While he isn't the greatest showman and doesn't interact with the crowd all that much, the music was consistently lovely. Oh, and it was free!




Some shots of M. Ward





Video of M. Ward playing "Medley: Rag/Duet for Guitars #3"


On Saturday, we again went the free route and checked out two cool music-related-but-not-music events going on at the Convention Center. The first is an annual staple at SXSW: Flatstock. Flatstock is a very cool poster show, featuring exhibits from some 50-100 artists who create posters for some of today's best acts. We walked around trying to find a cool poster for a show that we'd been to, finally purchasing the very last copy of a poster adverstising a Wilco concert we went to at the Calvin Theater in Northampton, Massachusetts a couple of years ago.

Upstairs from Flatstock, the Austin Record Convention and Texas Guitar Show was taking place. Seeing as we just bought a bunch of used records at Waterloo a few weeks ago, we mostly focused on the guitar show. There were rows and rows of beautiful vintage guitars. Makes me wish I could play.






Some of the art we saw at Flatstock

To round out the weekend, we went to the third annual Mess With Texas Party at Waterloo Park. Mess With Texas isn't really part of SXSW, but it takes place each year during the festival. Both this year and last, the lineup was arguably as good or better than any event at SXSW. We mostly went to catch The Thermals, but also saw sets by Thao Nguyen with the Get Down Stay Down and Vivan Girls. The former was a good surprise. The latter needs to practice playing and singing! The Thermals played a short, punchy set, highlighted (for me) by an energetic version of "Returning to the Fold." I hear the new album is good, too (7.8/10 from the notoriously picky staff at Pitchfork Media).
Karol, Rachel and Jon at Mess With Texas
Thao
The Thermals' Kathy Foster and Hutch Harris




The Thermals playing "Returning to the Fold" at SXSW

So maybe next year we'll ante up and get wristbands. Maybe? If not, I think we'll do just fine.