Barbecue Update

Hard to believe, but it's been six months since I posted about Texas barbecue, and five months since we left for Texas via White Castle and O'Charley's. From the sound of it, we've spent 97% of the time eating, looking for places to eat, discussing food with our friends, planning or attending food-related events, or doing some other culinary activity. Well ... crunching the numbers, that's probably a little on the high side. The posts don't lie, though -- we're certainly somewhat food oriented.

Surprisingly, we really haven't sampled all that much 'cue in those five months, but I thought I'd update readers on some of our BBQ-related thoughts. This one's in honor of Perry Zinn-Rowthorn's upcoming visit to Austin.

BEST BARBECUE WE'VE HAD SO FAR

Hand's down, we both agree that the best barbecue we've eaten is at Louie Mueller Barbecue in Taylor, TX, home of my employer. Maker of righteous brisket that they rub with a magical blend that is purportedly comprised of little more than a blend of salts and peppers, the brisket is magically moist, tasty and a little bit spicy when it emerges from one of the pits that fills the entire main room up with smoke.


Board full of business cards darkened by smoke from the pits at Louie Mueller

Thankfully they've put a second dining room next to the main one, which is a little smoky but more tolerable than the main room. You do order in the main room, and even that can leave you smelling like smoke for the rest of the day. When you get to the front of the line and they take your order, they rip off a couple of feet of butcher's paper and put it on the counter, along with the Holy Grail of barbecued brisket: a small cube they cut off -- it really sort of falls off -- and place on the corner of your paper for you to enjoy while carve up your order. The brisket, offered in choices of fatty or leaner, comes sliced a bit thicker than most places, and is moist and tender, with a sick crust and great smoky-spicy flavor. The smoked turkey breast has the same crust, though a little thinner probably from shorter smoking time, and is great to eat on a sandwich. The chicken runs out quickly but is moist and a little more mild than the turkey or brisket. Louie Mueller usually serve three kinds of sausage: chipotle, jalapeno and regular, all Elgin variety. The pork loin is supposedly great. I haven't tried any ribs. Louie Mueller also makes steaks and some other things, including a nice side of pintos. If you have time, make it out to Taylor for the best.

NEXT UP

The two best places are outside Austin, each about 30 minutes on a good day. Kreuz Market, in Lockhart, is an institution. It is often touted as the best in the area. We went one day when Don & Sheila, Jon's parents, were in town. It is in a huge red building with two dining areas with the requisite picnic benches. Your order is taken in the back, along side the amazing array of pits. We ordered from a lady who looked like one of the original employees from 1948. With four of us, we ended up deciding to taste several things, including brisket, spare ribs, two kinds of sausage, along with beans and slaw. I thought the jalapeno sausage was the best thing. Nicely firm casing and a less mealy inside than most Elgin sausage. The brisket great, although not as flavorful, in my opinion, than Louie Mueller's. Sides were good. Definitely worth checking out if you like the meat. Kreuz serves lots of things, like shoulder clod (leaner beef than brisket), pork and beef ribs, pork chops, ham and homemade wieners.


Sign at Kreuz Market -- I'd listen to the people there, they know what they're talkin' about.

A LOCAL FAVORITE

One of our favorites within the confines of Austin is the first barbecue place we ever visited. In fact, if my memory is correct, we went there on the first night of our first visit here in September 2005. Ruby's is near the UT campus, and serves more natural, organic meats, along with salads, tacos, Cajun food, vegetarian items, and soup and side dish specials. Very nice brisket sandwich. Good turkey and chicken, too.

THE REST

• Mann's Smokehouse, also within the city limits, is in small building under the highway to the north of the city center. The spot isn't the prettiest, but Mann's makes a mean jalapeno sausage and very good smoked turkey. The friendly people there threw in free brownies last time, which were excellent -- just the right richness.
• Iron Works is solid barbecue and conveniently located near the heart of downtown.
• I've only eaten frozen barbecue from the Salt Lick, in nearby Driftwood, but it was decent. Not in the same league as Louie Mueller or Kreuz, if you ask me. The huge place is in a nice spot out in the country just south of Austin.
• Rudy's, a chain, isn't as bad as some people say.
• Also a chain, Bill Miller probably isn't too different in quality from Rudy's, but has more of a fast food vibe. I thought the BBQ chicken sandwhich, with pulled chicken, a little sauce and optional pickles and onions on a poppy seeded bun, was actually pretty tasty and a good buy.
• Green Mesquite, just south of Lake Austin, serves up lots more than BBQ. We ordered a BBQ sampler one of the two times we've been there, and it was pretty good, if not memorable.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Well, we've tried quite a few places, but there are a ton more left. Just in Lockhart, home of Kreuz Market, there are two other legendary BBQ joints: Black's and Smitty's each of which has a large, dedicated following. We're trying to plan a "barbecue crawl" with some friends, which should provide an opportunity to do some more investigative eating. Of course, we'll have to fill you in.